The Canberra Times
March 3
zbekistan. Most of my friends can hardly pronounce it, let alone spell it. Even trivia buffs don't know it is a former Soviet republic, east of Iran, north of Afghanistan and south of Russia. But they will soon, for Uzbekistan is fast on the road to becoming a major destination for international travellers.
At the crossroads of the famous historic Silk Road, Uzbeki sights such as the Registan Square in Samarkand leave you amazed. This land-locked nation is every bit as exotic as India, but you need not worry if you walk around with your mouth wide open, breathing it all in. Uzbekistan may be very poor, but the people are sophisticated and its wide streets arespotless.
What's more, it has a very rich cultural heritage. Part of the appeal of Uzbekistan is it has an uncanny knack of retaining the very best of its eclectic history.
Uzbekistan has outstanding Islamic architecture, a legacy dating back to the early 700s AD. Yet female travellers are not restricted by the constraints of present-day Islam. Due to Stalin's drive against religious activities, 88 per cent of the population is officially Muslim, but today only 18 per cent practise this religion.
Women are educated and may dress as they choose. In the capital, Tashkent, many young Russian girls flaunt their long legs in sea-level mini skirts topped with skimpy sheer blouses. But in the countryside and the more traditional cities, the women wear spectacular dresses of hand-woven, traditional, brightly coloured silk. If it is a little cold they don aflowing velvet robe, sometimes shimmering with sequins.
Silk is everywhere. Gnarled mulberry trees shade roads running through lush valleys, across the steppes and through the deserts. The roads are in such good condition, it's hard to believe a caravan of camels took six days to travel the Silk Road between Samarkand and Bukhara. We travelled this legendary route in an afternoon. Some roads have four lanes, but more people are walking than driving. Amid red poppies, shepherds herd flocks of goats and cows and sell puppies by the roadside. As Daewoo has a joint-venture factory in Uzbekistan. Daewoo public mini-vans are popular.
Situated at the western end of the Himalayas, most of Uzbekistan is flat. It is not hard to see why ancient travellers along the Silk Road were guided by the minarets, the lighthouses of the desert. And you don't need to imagine the ubiquitous caravanserai, the historic merchants hotels with stables built around a well in the desert. Caravanserai still exist, but they are no longer hotels.
Most hotels were built by the Soviets and have certainly seen better days. I was shocked at the Jaikhun Hotel, Urgench when I turned on the basin tap and jet black water spurted out. When I turned on the TV nothing happened - it had no aerial and was not even plugged in. Even more shocking is the price, $US80 ($A155). No wonder the majority of Uzbekistan's very few travellers enjoy more economic group tours.
A real Soviet hangover is an obsession with paper work. Travellers are supposed to keep documentation of all accommodation, so it is difficult to stay with the many families offering much cheaper B&Bs. This situation will undoubtedly change and provide a wonderful opportunity to enjoy the people.
The well-mannered Uzbeks couldn't be more friendly and hospitable. Even though they don't all speak English, and my Uzbek and Russian are non-existent, they are very easy to communicate with. It's not hard to appreciate their forebears have been welcoming newcomers for nearly two millennia.
Uzbekistan was always a cultural crossroad and the Uzbeks still have an inherent curiousity, a real quest for cultural exchange. The number of English-speakers grows daily and they are most interested to converse with you. And it will be a discussion, rather than the usual, "Where do you come from, are you married, do you have any children?"
The study of mathematics and the sciences, respect for artisans, for writers and poets has been integral to this esteemed Central Asian land, at least since Bukhara attracted the greatest scholars and poets in the 10th century AD. Today education is compulsory from 6-17 years and the literacy rate is 98 per cent.
As people from both East and West have been drawn to Uzbekistan ever since the Macedonian hero Alexander the Great took Samarkand in 329 BC, it's no wonder Uzbekistan has 100 different nationalities. But I was simply astounded when I asked why some people in Samarkand have fair hair and blue eyes, even red hair and was answered unanimously with, "Oh, they are descendants of Alexander the Great."
According to legend, Alexander the Great is responsible for the national dish plov, rice mixed with mutton, or finely diced vegetables, even raisins.
Diners are often entertained by musicians and dancers. Every meal begins with the holy food, nom, a flat round, crispy but soft-centred bread. This is accompanied by shredded salads and raw vegetables, bunches of herbs and Russian sour cream. Broth with globs of fat, lumps of mutton and pieces of root vegetables may then be served before shaslik, dolmades, stuffedcapsicum, Chinese and or Italian noodles, even Chicken Kiev.
In the summer Uzbeks enjoy an outstanding range of fruit, but few travellers are brave enough to endure temperatures as high as 45 degrees Celcius. Those who do are grateful there is cheap beer aplenty, the Russian vodka tradition is thriving and Uzbekistan is considered to be the original home of wine.
Who could ask for more? Uzbekistan, what a marvellous mix of old and new, of East and West.
Getting there
The easiest and cheapest way to travel is by a group tour. Backpacking is not common. You may hire a guide and driver, but it is more economical to take a tour. As it is difficult to read the signs in Russian, a guide is a great help.
Do not rely on ATMs. Traveller's cheques are rarely accepted. You need to travel with US cash, nice crisp notes dated after 1990. Everyone changes money on the black market.
Best guide book: Uzbekistan. The Golden Road to Samarkand. Odyssey.
Take care with food and water. Uzbekistan may look clean, but it is not safe to eat salads and uncooked foods. Wash hair in bottled water.