The Toronto Star
December 12

Bukhara home to ancient history

The thing that struck me most about my visit to the Republic of Uzbekistan was its cities.

After 70-odd years under Soviet rule, I had expected them to be gritty and badly in need of a facelift, much like the old Russian cities along the Volga that I visited two years ago.

Instead, I found the Asian oases of Samarkand, Tashkent and Bukhara spotlessly clean, with broad tree-lined avenues, shady parks and meticulously landscaped gardens. Especially here in Bukhara, where there are so many beautifully-preserved monuments and exquisite Islamic architecture, it's little wonder the citizens take such pride in showing visitors its architectural treasures.

An important trade centre on the Silk Road, Bukhara, with a population of about 270,000, is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, dating back at least 2,500 years. With more than 300 historic monuments in fairly close proximity, it's an outdoor museum that deserves at least three days. And, while you're taking it in, no matter where you step - on the cobblestone streets, the mosaic tiles of a mosque or the carpeted floor of a shop - beneath your feet, in layer upon layer, lie remnants of civilizations that have come and gone down the centuries.

In the lowest layer, about 20 metres deep, are remains from the 4th century BC, the time when this city was part of the vast region of Central Asia that had been conquered by Alexander the Great. The layers reveal Bukhara's story from ancient times, building up to the layer just beneath the present city, which dates to the medieval period (9th to 12th century).

The Kalyan Minaret, symbol of Bukhara, was erected during this period (1127), the like of which had not been seen in the East, indeed anywhere in the known world. Almost 15 storeys in height, it is decorated with 14 parallel bands, each one different and, for eight centuries, has served as a watchtower, a beacon for caravans travelling the Silk Road and, these days, a landmark for tourists who happen to lose their way in the narrow streets of the old section.

During the time of the emir, it was known as "the tower of death" when criminals were tied up in sacks and thrown from the top.

The minaret, still the tallest in the Muslim East, so impressed Genghis Khan and his Mongol hordes that he decided not to destroy it when he razed the city in the 13th century.

Another building of great importance from the Middle Ages is the cube-shaped Tomb of the Samanids, which was built in the 10th century in what was then the centre of a cemetery but has since become the Samanids Park of Culture and Recreation, shaded by huge plane trees.

Found preserved beneath the sands, it is one of the world's oldest monuments and one of the most sacred buildings in Bukhara, considered by many to be the gem of Central Asian architecture.

Built as a mausoleum for members of the Persian Samanids, the local dynasty of rulers at the time, the domed mausoleum is an exquisite work of art. From a distance, its burnt brickwork looks like delicate lace, changing patterns according to the light.

At the end of a tree-lined avenue leading from the park is the Chasma Ayub Mausoleum, built in the 12th century, over a spring. According to legend, the origin of the spring is credited to the biblical prophet Job who, during a terrible drought in which crops, animals and people were perishing, struck the ground with his staff and hit upon the life-giving spring of water.

Like neighbouring Samarkand to the east, most of the Islamic architecture in Bukhara dates from the 16th and 17th centuries, a time when the city was one of Central Asia's great Khanates.

In fact, much of Bukhara's appearance is credited to Abdallah Khan II - the madrassas (Muslim schools of learning), caravanserais (inns with courtyards), domed bazaars, mosques and the remains of the 16th century gates and mud wall that surrounded the city.

The Arabs brought Islam to Bukhara in the 8th century, ridding it of its Zoroastrian temples and fire worshippers. By the 14th century, the Silent Order of Dervishes, a Sufi movement, was founded by Sheik Muhammad Bahautadin Naqshbandi.

Bukhara then became a renowned cultural and religious centre of the Muslim world. Known as the "dome of Islam," it is one of Islam's most sacred cities.

By the 16th century, with more than 60 madrassas, it had attracted scientists, mathematicians, poets and scholars from all over Central Asia.

An important trade centre on the Silk Road, its bazaars were filled with spices, silks, ceramics and gunpowder from China, carpets from Persia and gold and gems from the West.

Streets around the bazaar were lined with caravanserais that housed the traders from China, Persia, Arabia and the Ottomans. And, though most of the market structures haven't survived from those times, the arcade of Tim Abdullakhan still exists where you can buy beautiful bolts of silk, weavings, embroidery, spices, jewellery, wood carvings, headgear, brass and copper and those exquisite carpets that Bukhara is known for.

The site of the Ark citadel dates back more than 20 centuries. It is the oldest monument in Bukhara and excavations date it to the time of Alexander. It was the fortified residence of Bukhara's rulers and contained temples, palaces, arsenal, prison, barracks, all the requirements of a small fortress city. Destroyed and rebuilt many times over centuries, and, based on historical writings, it was restored in the 19th and 20th centuries. Inside is a museum exhibiting the history of the Ark fortress. At the foot of the Ark is Reghistan Square, where public festivities and executions once took place.

At the centre of the city is Plaza Lyabi-Khauz where locals still meet to chat around a pond beneath shady trees.

It's also the location of impressive 16th-century public buildings, including the Kukaltash Madrassa (1569), built by Abdullah II that was, at the time, the biggest Islamic school in Central Asia.

Opposite it is the Nadir Devanbegi Madrassa, which was really built as a caravanserai but, as the story goes, the emir was invited to its opening and, having had too much to drink, thanked the builder for the beautiful madrassa. As an emir was never wrong, the caravanserai immediately became a madrassa.

Another notable work of architecture found in the old section of Bukhara is the Chor-Minor Madrassa, erected in 1807. Cube-shaped, it's surrounded by a courtyard and pond and contains four odd-looking minarets, topped with sky-blue cupolas. Its unusual design is somewhat of a mystery to those who know period architecture.

Who knows, perhaps millennia from now, some archeologist will uncover a layer from 21st century Bukhara and marvel at the beauty of this period in the city's history.

Kalyan Minaret is the symbol of Bukhara. The 15-storey sentinel was erected in 1127. It was a beacon for the Silk Road caravans. Catherine george photo Young Uzbek mother proudly poses with her daughter in covered bazaar in heart of Bukhara, a good place to shop for the beautiful carpets the city is known for. catherine george photos Three schoolgirls practise their English with visitors in front of the Ark citadel. Children throughout Uzbekistan are friendly. catherine george photos The exquisite Tomb of the Samanids was built in the 10th century and is considered to be the gem of Central Asian architecture. Found beneath the sands, it is one of Bukhara's most sacred buildings. Catherine George Photo The fortified residence of Bukhara's rulers, the restored Ark citadel is the city's most ancient monument. Excavations at the site date it back more than 20 centuries to the time of Alexander the Great.

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